Reflections
Our C2Cx2 was a huge achievement. We had walked 444 miles over 32 days, including two rest days. We had averaged about 15 miles each day we walked. We have many memories we will treasure, an extensive library of around 9,000 pictures to jog those memories, and endless conversation topics for the future.
In 2010 we finished the C2C on a real high and regretted that the walk was over. This time we finished with a great sense of achievement, but with relief that the walk was over. There were many reasons for the differences we felt at the end of the two walks:
- In 2010 we were accompanied for much of the final day by other walkers with whom we had shared the C2C experience, so the shared celebration at the end was special. In 2014 we seemed to be the only C2C walkers in Robin Hoods Bay - the barman at the Bay Hotel hadn't seen any others that afternoon; - Much of the final day of the walk in 2010 had been under sunny blue skies that lifted our spirits, but the final day this time had been overcast with showers at the end; - Wainwright's route saved the sight of the end at Robin Hoods Bay until very near the end, but this time we had another hour and a half of walking after seeing the end – psychologically Wainwright was right; - Neither of us had suffered foot problems during the 2010 walk, but this time we both had foot problems and Mary also had ongoing stomach problems with no obvious cause. Mary's mallet toes were painful. She developed blisters after getting her boots and socks wet during the rainy day from Thirsk to Masham – her waterproofs had drained into rather than over her socks. So for most of the walk Mary wore Compeed dressings to accompany the silicon toe supports taped to her toes. For much of the walk Graham's right foot was red, swollen and tender. Our breakfast and lunch were accompanied by painkillers most days.
'Mary's mummified toes'
- We had been exhausted during the last days of the walk this time, but we had not reached that stage in 2010 - in 2010 we had been walking for 17 relatively easy days with a maximum daily mileage of about 16 miles, but this time we had been walking for 32 days and 8 of those days had been 17 miles or more; The walk was a mix of pleasure and pain. Our 2010 C2C was mainly pleasure – the only pain was the physical exertion of walking. This time our feet were an ever present pain, particularly for Mary who also had stomach problems. And we had many more gruelling long days. So if the pleasure to pain ratio was 10:1 for our 2010 C2C, it was 5:1 for Graham's C2Cx2, and Mary's estimate was 2:1 for our C2Cx2. The pleasures were still fantastic.
Having done our C2Cx2 we can make some judgements about: doing the C2C a second time; the C2C vs NoEW; and the combined C2C and NoEW.
Doing the Coast to Coast a second time
The decision to do the C2C a second time is a very personal one. Mary is comfortable with the familiar, and probably enjoyed the second C2C partly because she knew what to expect after our first time. Graham enjoys the novelty of new places, and chose a different route for our east-west crossing and totally different routes on 3 days and partly different routes on another 5 days of our second C2C. Choice of alternative routes added to the navigational and other excitement, especially in the mist on High Raise!
We had chosen to do the C2C again partly because the camaraderie with fellow C2C walkers on our first C2C was very special. However we met many fewer C2C walkers on our second C2C. The Tassie two were the only walkers we met on more than two days of the walk, whereas in 2010 many faces became familiar. Our 17 day crossing in 2010 finished on 30 September when one of the major baggage carriers finished their season. For our 2014 14 day crossing we left St Bees four days later than in 2010, and arrived in Robin Hoods Bay one day later on 1 October. Perhaps these few days difference at the end of the season meant there were fewer walkers about. Our friends that we met at Boot encountered more people on their walk a couple of weeks earlier, but they noticed there were fewer people than in 2010. Another acquaintance who did the walk in June 2014 met few people on the walk. Perhaps the Julia Bradbury effect was wearing off as it was 4-5 years since her program had appeared on TV and stimulated great interest in the walk. Perhaps long distance walkers are now choosing the Comino in Spain as their preferred long-distance walk after the more recent movie 'The Way'. All the walkers we met on trails near Brisbane who were preparing for a long distance walk were heading for the Comino.
Without the camaraderie we had experienced on our first C2C, and without the novelty of the first C2C, our second C2C was not as special as the first C2C. But it was still a very enjoyable walk.
The C2C vs the NoEW
Despite their proximity, the C2C and NoEW are very different walks. Wainwright chose the wild, remote upland areas of northern England for his C2C. Maugham's NoEW is a gentler route following rivers and streams through the classical scenery and villages of rural and pastoral England. The routes across the North York Moors illustrate this difference. The C2C is a hard core march across the northern heather-covered tops from Huthwaite Green to Glaisdale, with the Lion Inn the only habitation on the route. The NoEW wanders along river valleys draining the southern moors, climbs over the gentle heather-covered ridges between the valleys, and diverts through several charming villages. Both are wonderful, but in very different ways.
There is more information available on the C2C, including at least five guidebooks compared with one out of print guide for the NoEW. Several baggage carriers support the C2C, but only one mentions the NoEW on their website. There seems to be little difference in availability of accommodation on both routes – along both routes there are only a few places where accommodation is limited. During the walking season there will be more people on the C2C than on the NoEW, except for the part of the NoEW that follows the Dales Way. For some the camaraderie of fellow walkers is a plus, but for others it may be a negative.
Both the C2C and NoEW are great walks. The C2C is easier to organise, the route is easier to follow, but it follows a wilder path. The NoEW is gentler but takes a little more effort to organise and navigate. If you are planning your first long distance walk, the C2C may be a better introduction. But if you choose the NoEW, you should have a very enjoyable experience.
Combining the NoEW and C2C
The NoEW and C2C are sufficiently different to maintain interest and enjoyment throughout the combined walk. If time and stamina are available, they combine beautifully for a longer walk.
The shorter days at the start of our NoEW were an easy, useful way to build up our walking fitness. However, we still found the 17+mile days trying. Our longest day across the North York Moors was probably the least enjoyable and most exhausting of the trip. Perhaps without foot pain the long days would have been more bearable. Although we managed the long days, we would have enjoyed the walk more if we had had another week available. Our first C2C split into 16 days of walking 16 miles or less was more enjoyable than our 13 longer days of walking this time. So planning for comfortable daily walks ensures maximum enjoyment. However, what we found comfortable is not a valid guide for what others will find comfortable.
Having more time available would also allow time to explore places along the way that we did not have time to stop for. There are more of these places along the NoEW than along the C2C. We would have been interested in seeing the ruins of ancient structures including Helmsley Castle, Riveaulx Abbey, Jervaulx Abbey and Middleham Castle, as well as modern industrial sites such as the Brymoor Icecream factory and Wensleydale Creamery and somewhat older industrial sites such as the Grosmont railway workshops. A ride on Lil Ratty from Ravenglass to Boot would have been fun.
Slowing down the walk would have decreased the physical stress and increased time to have a better look around. Whether we would have wanted to be walking for another week is uncertain. On our C2Cx2 we had probably had enough by the time we reached Richmond – not having to re-pack on the morning of our rest day was a great relief. Again, our view may have been different in the absence of foot pain.
Having made these observations, the critical question is 'Are we glad we did the C2Cx2?'. The answer, without any doubt, is YES, YES, YES!
What next?
We may or may not do another long distance walk, depending on finances (for those of us who don't camp, and have to fly from the other side of the world, it is an expensive holiday), fitness (Mary's toes are still a problem) and other possible holidays (we still haven't seen the birds of Western Australia, the central desert region and the top end).
There are long distance walks in Australia. None wander from village to village. Most are in remote wilderness areas and camping is required, although guided and catered walks are available on some of the routes. We prefer the walks in the UK and Europe linking villages and towns.
Mary would like to return to England to do day walks and shorter walks, with time to stop along the way to explore interesting places (rather than walking past places like Middleham Castle and Jervaulx Abbey).
We do not yet feel like too old codgers. Perhaps another long distance walk is on the cards, as long as daily mileages don't exceed 15 miles. As memory of the pain of our C2Cx2 diminishes, our attitude to another walk becomes more positive.
For those with time, stamina, money, and an appreciation of the pleasures of life in the slow lane, a long distance walk is a great holiday.