Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 16.6 miles
moving speed – 3.2 mph
start – 9.15 am
finish – 5 pm
moving – 5h 15 min

After the usual morning routine (Mary working on line, Graham updating the diary, downloading pictures, going for a walk around the village, both repacking), we walked through the courtyard to the main part of the house for breakfast at 7.45. We joined another couple of walkers who were setting out on the Cleveland Way and swapped stories of some of the best and worst B&Bs we had stayed in while walking. Graham had a good breakfast of fruit salad and yoghurt and the full English but Mary just had cereal and tea as she was feeling a little unwell.

We set off at 9.15 to wander past the Helmsley shops, watch stalls being set up in the market square, and to find a bakery near the castle which was the only place selling apple turnovers for our lunch.

It was 9.45 when we walked past the 'Cleveland Way' sign pointing out of town. It was a pleasant start to the day as we walked beside hedgerows and walls with lots of birds singing and a hazy view back to the castle. The mist soon cleared leaving a bright blue sky. It was getting hot by the time we passed Griff Lodge, so the shade of Quarry Bank Wood was a welcome relief. Having visited Rievaulx Abbey previously, we decided not to detour for a closer look at the magnificent ruin. We continued along the road, then along forestry tracks past the ponds on Noodle Hill where large flocks of ducks congregated. The footbridge over the stream mentioned in the guidebook has been replaced by stepping stones.

'Hazy Helmsley Castle from Cleveland Way'

'By-passing Rievaulx Abbey'

'Ducks on pond at Noodle Hill'

After a long hot climb beside and through Callister Wood, we emerged onto an exposed, very hot, rocky track. This felt and looked like an Australian summer scene. The climb to Cold Kirby (hot Kirby on this day) along Low Field Lane was a long slow plod. Mary took Immodium to quell her stomach problems, and was hoping to use a toilet in Cold Kirby but we didn't see one. So as we passed the next wooded area Mary disappeared, to emerge looking very pale a little later. She soldiered on to Hambleton Inn where we had a toilet stop and reviving lemonades.

'Low field Lane to Cold (Hot?) Kirby'

'Mary's disappearance'

'Reviving lemonades, Hambleton Inn'

Because of Mary's condition we decided to forgo the view over the white horse and took a short cut via the National Park information centre (and toilets). Graham suggested taking a bus from the information centre to Thirsk, but Mary said she was feeling better and wanted to keep going. So we each had a cup of tea and Graham had one of the apple turnovers before heading off to Sutton Bank and a hazy view over Gormire Lake and the Vale of York. As we followed the Cleveland Way along the top of the escarpment we were surprised (in several senses) by the number of cyclists using the path.

'Hazy Gormire Lake and Vale of York'

'Cyclists surprise us on the Cleveland Way'

After passing Whitestone Cliff we found a signed turnoff to Boltby. This wasn't mentioned in the guidebook, but that was because directions are given for a west to east walk and the Boltby sign is not relevant going in that direction. After checking the OS map and GPS, we confirmed this was our turnoff. Having to do these checks wasn't a significant problem, but it was an issue we faced at many points along the walk.

'Confusing turnoff to Boltby'

'Graham checks guidebook, map, GPS and sign'

'Colourful mushroom by the path'

The reward for finding the correct path was a delightful downhill walk through woods and across fields as far as Ravensthorpe Mill. Mary was feeling better by now and some colour had returned to her face. Even the tarmac farm track then the road leading into Felixkirk seemed pleasant walking. We stopped in the shade of Cinque Cliff Wood for afternoon tea, and Graham scoffed the other apple turnover.

'Thistle-lined path across Little Moor'

'Descent through delightful woods'

'Farm track from Cinque Cliff Wood'

From Felixkirk we decided to take the road into Thirsk, thinking it would be quicker and easier than the field paths of the NoEW. However the road verge was very uneven and traffic was fairly heavy. So where the NoEW briefly rejoined the road, we took the NoEW across fields until we reached the A19. This was more pleasant, except for the recently ploughed field that was even rougher and more uncomfortable than the road verge. It was a long trudge from the A19 road bridge into the centre of town, the longest stretch of urban walking since we left Scarborough. We treated ourselves to a medicinal brandy (Mary) and beer (Graham) in the beer garden of a pub as we neared our B&B. At 5pm it was still hot, and there were many other people enjoying the afternoon outside in the beer garden.

'St Felix Kirk, Felixkirk'

'Mary struggles across a ploughed field'

'A medicinal brandy in a beer garden, Thirsk'

A good room at the end of a tough day of walking is a great pleasure, and our room at The Gallery helped Mary's recovery. On the landlady's recommendation, we headed off to the Golden Fleece for dinner, to find the same wine list and a similar menu to the previous two nights – again the pub was owned by the same people. The pubs still managed to retain their individual characters, but all were of a very good standard for rural village or town pubs. Graham enjoyed his usual dinner while Mary had brandy and lemonade. Then we went to bed early for a well-earned sleep after our longest day's walk so far.

'Thirsk street outside Gallery B&B'

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