Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 6.9 miles
start – 9.30 am
finish – 2.30 pm
moving – 2h 33m

Having decided on the easy C2C route for the day, we took our time over breakfast and didn't leave until 9.30. Chestnut Villa is on the A591 at the northern edge of Grasmere, so there was only a short walk along the road before tackling the climb beside Great Tongue. On this bright and sunny Sunday morning the layby on the A591 was full of cars and walkers preparing for a day out on the fells. Many would have been heading for Helvellyn as walking conditions were ideal.

'Walkers leaving their cars for a day on the fells'

For a change from our 2010 walk, we took the right hand route around Great Tongue following the valley of Tongue Gill. Rather than the constant, wearing climb of the left hand route, we had a series of short steep climbs followed by relatively level sections to catch our breath, until we came to the steeper, stepped climb at the end of the valley. Compared to the soft, grassy left hand route, we had a very rocky path that was rough in places and tough on our feet. We didn't have the views over Grasmere seen from the left hand route, but we did have the sound of waterfalls all the way up the valley. Both routes have their charms and challenges.

'Waterfalls along Tongue Gill'

'Looking back at the path along Tongue Gill'

Between the top of the steep climb at the head of the valley and Grisedale Tarn is a boulder strewn scree slope. Across this slope we made way for three groups of young walkers who had camped at the tarn overnight. Grisedale Hause seemed to be channelling a cold breeze across the tarn. We had planned to have our late morning tea at the tarn, but the only sheltered, sunny spot near the outlet from the tarn was occupied by campers who were still packing up. Perhaps Graham was feeling the chill a little more – for the last few days he had been wearing shorts rather than long trousers because, unlike the NoEW, the C2C was relatively free of stinging nettles.

'Young campers negotiating the scree slope below Grisedale Hause'

'Grisedale Tarn'

So we began our descent into Grisedale, on the lookout for somewhere to sit and get out the thermos. There were so many people about that the few comfortable places were occupied. We could also see lots of walkers up on the skyline of Striding Edge to our left and St Sunday Crag to our right. We made our way across the rocky outcrops and down the rough, stony path, and near Ruthwaite Lodge we nabbed a suitable rock as it was left by a small group of walkers. It was now 1pm, so we had our lunch.

'A line of walkers along Striding Edge'

'A rough, rocky descent'

'Lunch, looking down Grisedale'

'Butterfly near our picnic spot'

After a brief stop we continued beside Grisedale Beck down the valley, dropping from the rough, rocky upper levels to the green pastures, farms and forests of lower Grisedale. We were soon in Patterdale and found our B&B, but there wasn't anyone home. We decided to leave our packs and walking sticks in the porch and explore the village. Just as we were about to leave, the Tassie two turned up. We chatted for a while, then headed off.

'Grisedale Beck'

'Crossing Grisedale Beck (note bare knees)'

'Pastures, farms and forests of lower Grisedale'

We stopped to watch goldfinches feeding on seeding grasses in the graveyard of the church, then were tempted to join the throng of people in the beergarden of the Patterdale Hotel. Graham had noticed a bigger proportion of people in pubs drinking lager than in 2010. On this warm, sunny afternoon a lager seemed appropriate – it was a big disappointment after the ales and bitters. At the Patterdale Stores we stocked up on supplies of compeeds, painkillers, tissues, shortbread and crisps, and also got a couple of C2C T shirts.

'Patterdale church'

'The beergarden of the Patterdale Hotel'

By the time we got back to Grisedale Lodge the landlady had returned. We were shown to a pleasant room overlooking the garden and fells. We showered then had time to give ourselves manicures and pedicures, and to answer emails, update the diary and download pictures.

'Our Patterdale B&B'

'An early occupant at the White Lion'

At 5.30 we headed off for an early dinner at the White Lion. This was the first evening we needed anything warmer than our shirts to venture outdoors. Graham reverted to Theakston's bitter, a much more enjoyable beer than his afternoon lager. We ordered our usual pub fare and enjoyed our dinner. As we were eating, the Tassie two appeared and sat at an adjoining table. They weren't as happy as we were about having another pub meal. The landlady at the B&B had suggested a Glenridding restaurant as an alternative, but it was closed for the evening. The pub was popular - by the time we left, almost all the tables were occupied.

Back at the B&B the landlady chatted to us about our walk so far, and plans for the next day. I mentioned the route I had planned across High Street, down past Small Water and then along the Old Corpse Road to Shap. She and her husband were keen walkers and knew the route. She also knew the B&B we were staying at in Shap and said we would be well looked after.

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