Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 18.7 miles
moving speed – 3.0 mph
start – 9.15 am
finish – 6.10 pm
moving – 6h 10 min

We both had cereal and toast for breakfast, then Graham cooked bacon and eggs – it was a pleasant change to cook for ourselves, but it did take extra time. And after repacking bags and relacing boots, we didn't get away from the cottage until 9.15.

We emerged from the cottage to a bright blue sunny sky, a happy change from yesterday. And as we emerged a man walking his dog ambled along with us, chatting about walking and about Masham. He accompanied us to the town square where our luggage carriers spied us and chatted with us for a long while. Meeting friendly people along the way is one of the great pleasures of long distance walking.

'Lane outside glassblower's cottage'

'Masham town square under a bright blue sky'

The walk began with a glorious couple of miles beside the River Ure. Across the river was grand Burton House. Where a new quarry blocked the route of the NoEW (quarries seem to have right of way over rights of way in these parts), Graham had assumed there would be a signed alternative path. The assumption was incorrect, but after backtracking and tracing a 2 mile detour south of the quarry on the OS map we resumed the NoEW route.

'Walking beside the Ure'

'Grand Burton House across the Ure'

'A quarry blocks the right of way'

From High Ellington we began one of the most delightful sections of the NoEW with views to the Cleveland Hills, Teeside and Roseberry Topping 20 miles away. These were views we hadn't had when we crossed the North York Moors in thick mist four years ago on our first C2C. Nearer there were views of farmland and stone-built villages. At Ellingstring we were greeted by a farmer, and then by a group of walkers who were keen to discuss routes around the village. From the village we walked up a lane and stopped at the crest of a hill with magic views for a late morning tea. The farmer we had seen earlier was out inspecting his sheep, but stopped for a long chat. When we marvelled at the beauty of the area he remarked that it was as close to heaven as he would get this side of the grave. But we were brought back down to earth when he said he doubted we could walk as far as Redmire, our destination for the day, before dark.

'Gorgeous rural view over Thornton Steward'

'Gorgeous farmhouse, Ellingstring'

'Morning tea in the field'

'Morning tea view to Cleveland Hills and Roseberry Topping'

After that warning we decided not to detour into the Brymoor ice cream shop where the ice cream is made at High Jervaulx Farm, nor to Jervaulx Abbey. We rejoined the River Ure for more easy riverbank walking, then followed the River Cover from its junction with the Ure. At the bridge over the Cover we met a large group of walkers who laughingly told us they had lost some of their company at the Cover Bridge Inn on the other side of the river. Resisting the temptation of the Inn, we pressed on to stop for lunch on a bench overlooking a very pretty stretch of the river.

'By-passing Jervaulx Abbey'

'Lunch beside the River Cover'

'Lunch view of the pretty River Cover'

Soon after lunch we climbed the steep bank of the Cover heading for Middleham. Near the crest of the hill we met an older lady out for her daily walk across the fields. She lamented that she had been a keen walker and cyclist but could no longer tackle strenuous activities. We resolved to finish this walk so we would have wonderful memories to look back on when we became too frail in our old age (tomorrow or next week!).

Middleham Castle was just one more interesting place we passed when we would dearly have liked to explore, but the warning from earlier in the day about not reaching Redmire spurred us on. As we crossed fields heading back down to the Ure, we could not find the fences and gates mentioned in the guidebook. A young farmer ploughing the field stopped for a chat, and to point us in the direction of the path. He explained that hedgerows and fences had been removed to allow the fields to be cultivated after centuries under pasture. Roman coins had been turned up by the plough. He reassured us that the pub we were heading for in Redmire was a good one.

'Middleham Castle'

'Another farmer happy to have a chat'

After walking again beside the Ure, we crossed the river at the village of Wensley then followed the drive past impressive Bolton Hall. We were astounded to see a tractor mowing the hillside at astounding speed (for a tractor).

'Walking beside the Ure again'

'Bolton Hall'

'Tractor mowing the hill at speed'

We followed farm tracks across fields and through a forest towards Redmire. Nearing the village we heard a sheep bleating plaintively. On investigation we found it had its head stuck through the wire mesh of a fence. With Mary's encouragement, Graham climbed into the field and grabbed the nose of the sheep protruding through the fence – the sheep got such a fright it wriggled its way out of the fence and walked off sheepishly!

'Sheep freed from the fence, walks away sheepishly on the right'

We reached the pub after 6pm, showered, and had dinner in the dining room. Graham did a comparative tasting of Theakston's Best vs Black Sheep Best – both were very good, with a slight preference for the Theakston's. Graham then had a lamb shank and Mary had salmon in a mustard sauce – both were good. We were in bed asleep by 9.30.

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