Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 14.7 miles
moving speed – 2.6 mph
start – 9.10 am
finish – 5.00 pm
moving – 5h 40m

Breakfast was served at 8am. Graham had his usual cooked breakfast and Mary had scrambled eggs. When Graham remarked that the tomatoes were really tasty, he was told they came from the garden at the back of the B&B.

Graham had devised an interesting alternative route out of Kirkby Stephen following Ladthwaite Beck, but Mary sensibly reminded him of the nettle forest last evening. So we followed the usual C2C route through Hartley and where the path entered a small wood we were treated to our third sighting of a red squirrel, and this time managed a very blurry picture.

'Blurry red squirrel, Hartley'

As we climbed the steep road above the quarry we caught our first glimpse of the nine standards as the cloud parted across the top of the ridge. A little further along we wondered why there were so many jet fighters roaring up and down the valley – we counted five, when normally we saw one or two in a day, if any. Next day the British Prime Minister announced the air force would be deployed in Iraq.

A group of five walkers, who we recognised from our B&B that morning, was catching up to us as Graham took pictures. And at the end of the tarmac road the Leicester 10 were collecting their packs from their bus – they had opted to have their packs carried up the steep road. We passed the Leicester 10 when they paused for a rest and then rushed to stay ahead of both groups, especially as we needed to find a protected wee stop on the featureless hillside.

'Rushing ahead of the pack'

We found a small protected gully that allowed us to relieve ourselves out of sight of the following pack. While we'd been walking quickly up the hill, we hadn't noticed the drop in temperature and the chill wind. But when we stopped we quickly cooled down. We put on our fleeces then had an early morning tea while both groups of walkers passed by. We were both startled when a fighter flew low over the gully – either it was flying faster than the speed of sound or the sides of the gully blocked the incredible noise until the plane appeared just over our heads.

At the nine standards we caught up to both groups as they took in the view. The group of five left as we arrived, but the Leicester 10 (minus 2 – not all of the group were walking this section) had stopped for morning tea. We hadn't realised what an advantage it was to have walkers ahead of us. The bogs on the ascent to the standards had been mostly dry or could be easily avoided. But the moors to the east were still very boggy. The group ahead explored various tracks until they found a way through each of the quagmires, and we could easily follow. We still sank to our ankles in some places, but between the gullies the moor was dry.

'Ascent to the Nine Standards through dry 'bogs''

'I wish I'd worn long trousers'

'The Leicester 10 (-2) leave Nine Standards'

We passed the group of five on the descent to Whitsundale Beck. The walk alongside the beck was slow because there were many boggy patches with detours around the worst areas. A grouse shoot was in progress as we walked down the valley – we could see the beaters and hear the guns.

'Following the group of five through the bogs'

We reached Ravenseat Farm at 1.30 where we ordered cream teas from one of the daughters of the family. Clive and Amanda, now stars of several TV series, were herding sheep across a couple of paddocks in front of the farmhouse. While waiting for the cream teas we ate our sandwiches from Fletcher House which were very good. And the cream teas were great. As we were leaving the Leicester 10 rolled in and ordered cream teas, several cars turned up, and the group of 5 appeared but they didn't stop.

'Sign at entrance to Ravenseat Farm'

'Clive, Amanda and dogs herding sheep'

'Enjoying the cream tea'

After the cool and cloudy morning, the sun came out throwing a lovely golden glow over Swaledale. The walking was easier along farm tracks up and over a hill then down past an abandoned farm to the Swale. Along the way we caught a glimpse of a weasel or stoat as it disappeared through a gap in a drystone wall.

'Swaledale in the afternoon sun'

We followed the road briefly to Keld where we departed from the C2C to follow the coffin route over Kisdon Hill. We passed a field of strange coloured sheep – our host at Swale Farm that evening explained that they had been peat washed in preparation for the sheep sales. At the base of Kisdon Hill about a dozen wagtails were bathing and drinking at a pool in a little beck. We were passed by a group of mountain bikers as we began the long, steep ascent up Kisdon Hill. The views back over Muker were brilliant, as were the views over the Swale and Muker after we crested the hill. At the crest we chatted with the cyclists who had stopped for a rest. When we parted they were heading for the pub in Muker – they joked that there wouldn't be any beer left by the time we got there.

'Peat washed sheep near Keld'

'Wagtail bathing'

'Keld from Kisdon Hill'

'Muker and the Swale from Kisdon Hill'

We got to the pub at 5pm, picked up a Theakston's Best (there was beer left) and double whisky and sat at one of the outside tables. The cyclists were leaving with cheery waves and goodbyes. It was pleasant outside the pub chatting with the people sitting at the other tables, but it was getting cool.

'Muker village'

'Muker pub'

At Swale Farm we were greeted by John and Joyce as old friends. We chatted for a long while in the kitchen while Joyce prepared their dinner. They are winding down their involvement in the various jobs they have been doing, but John had been involved in the grouse shoot that day. At some stage in future they will restrict bookings at the B&B to past guests. Our room had a lovely view over surrounding cottages, the village church and the fells south of the village. The bathroom was spacious with a great shower.

We returned to the pub for dinner: shoulder lamb with a mint sauce and breaded brie wedges followed by sticky toffee pudding accompanied by a smooth pedro ximinez sherry. Conversation at an adjoining table was dominated by an American woman who was doing the C2C east to west, with others at her table providing support. We rolled back to the B&B and bed at about 9pm.

Next >>>>