Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 13.2 miles;
moving speed – 3.0 mph
start – 10.15 am
finish – 5.15 pm
moving – 4h 24 min

As usual we woke early. Our morning routine before breakfast was to update the diary for the previous day, download pictures from the cameras, recharge cameras, phone and GPS, check emails from friends and (for Mary) work, and go for a walk around the village if there was time. This morning Graham walked around the grounds of the B&B, discovering an overgrown orchard and beautiful moss covered stone steps. Breakfast at 8.30 consisted of a great fresh fruit salad, including fruits grown in the village, and a full English breakfast with local eggs, bacon and black pudding.

'Preparing to leave Moorlands B&B'

'Walking through Levisham village'

We set off through the village, then down a lane past a field of poppies. We took a steep shortcut from Grove House down to the station – the NoEW, coming the other way, avoided what would have been a very steep climb by contouring across the slope. We passed the rail station on the North York Moors Railway and ascended through boggy fields as a steam train puffed and whistled along the track below. The route crossed Raygate Slack and the muddy Stony Moor before following forestry tracks and then a road to Stape. We missed the turnoff, so passed the Stape il age Ha l (apparently disused and letters had fallen from the sign), Board School and church (now a residence). We checked the OS map then took a right of way through the garden of the church to rejoin the NoEW.

'Mary walks across Stony Moor'

'Road past High Muffles farm'

After passing High Muffles Farm we descended through Cropton Forest past giant ant-nests. We were hungry and wanted to have our lunch beside Hartoft Beck, but the only place free from the ants was on the forestry track so that was where we stopped. The lunch prepared by Moorlands B&B was superb – ham rolls (leg ham and home baked rolls), cheese rolls, scotch eggs, mini pork pies, madeira cake and scones. Although we were hungry, it was more than we could eat so we kept the scones for morning tea on the following day, when they were still very good.

'Cropton Forest'

'Lunch on forestry track to escape the ants'

We followed the forestry track to the bridge over Hartoft Beck, then the road past the Blacksmith's Arms at Hartoft End before crossing grassy fields down to the River Seven. Mary's toes were hurting, so she stopped to readjust the silicone supports.

'Mary adjusts toe supports'

From the River Seven to Lastingham we crossed a broad expanse of heather on Spaunton Moor. The flowers were past their peak, but were still a beautiful mauve under a grey sky. While crossing a stream running through a wide boggy area, Mary sank to her ankle. Graham thought it must have been Tranmire Beck, the only stream crossing the moor marked in our guide book and on the OS map. So he was confused when we crested a ridge and saw another stream ahead – the GPS was brought out, position identified, and we proceeded on a long descent and steep ascent to cross Tranmire Beck.

'Spaunton Moor'

'Flowers of bell and ling heather'

'Mary sinks into un-named bog'

'Long descent to Tranmire Beck'

At Lastingham we stopped for a reviving afternoon tea on the village green. It was just as well we did stop for a rest – the climb out of the village was steep. We followed the road through Spaunton, then descended a holloway to emerge at Hutton-le-Hole, a very pretty village of two long rows of cottages facing each other across Hutton Beck and the village green with grazing sheep. Graham had always wanted to stay in this village since he first saw it in 1978. We checked in to The Barn guesthouse and were shown to a room that may have been compact, but it had a wonderful view across the green and beck.

'Afternoon tea in Lastingham'

'Hutton-le-Hole village'

'The Barn guesthouse, Hutton-le-Hole'

After showering and washing, we went up to the pub at 6.30. Mary had her usual double scotch and ginger ale followed by a glass of Italian rose. Graham had one of his favourite beers, a Black Sheep bitter, then, after seeing someone else order it, tried the Tetleys – it was awful. Mary had a gammon steak as a change from her usual fish and enjoyed it. Graham had his usual steak and ale pie that was also enjoyable. We left the pub at 8 and were soon in bed asleep.

'The Crown pub, Hutton-le-Hole'

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