Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 16.2 miles
moving speed – 2.9 mph
start – 9.50 am
finish – 5.45 pm
moving – 5h 30m

We went for breakfast at 8.30, the time specified in the brochure in our room, to find everyone else from the inn, bunkhouse and campground already there. We waited until 9 to be served. There was no fruit salad.

At 9.50 we set off under a bright blue sky. We decided to avoid retracing our steps along the busy road, so set off beside the rail line and then followed the route of the rail tunnel over Blea Moor to Dent Head. This had the advantage of taking us closer to Ribblehead viaduct, a highlight of the walk. On the map the walk over Blea Moor looked marginally shorter than the NoEW/ Dales Way route, but the long, steep climb and descent on a track that was rocky in parts and very boggy in others probably added an hour to the walk. As we walked past one of the massive spoil heaps from the tunnel on Blea Moor, we were surprised by an enormous WHOOSH of air from an air shaft as a train went through the tunnel. Taking this route gave us the chance to contemplate the enormity of the task of the hundreds of men who had excavated the tunnel and built the viaducts – Wainwright would have approved.

'Ribblehead viaduct'

'Rail tunnel under Blea Moor, spoil heaps on right'

'Blea Moor air shaft, spoil heap and boggy track'

Descending from Blea Moor we had a view of the rail line and the Dent Head and Artengill viaducts. At the end of the tunnel we followed a delightful path through a forest and then meandered by a little beck with waterfalls. We rejoined the NoEW route by crossing a quaint stone arched bridge, one of many we were to see as we followed the River Dee for the rest of the day. A couple out for a day walk told us of picnic tables and chairs beside the river a little further along provided by one of the landholders for the use of walkers. We took advantage of this kindness and enjoyed a comfortable morning tea in an idyllic spot.

'Delightful forest path, Mossy Bottom'

'Bridge End cottage and bridge over the Dee'

'Morning tea on picnic table beside the Dee'

A quiet road provided pleasant walking beside the river for a few miles. The river was very shallow, dropping in small falls over limestone shelves and sometimes disappearing underground. We saw our first ever dipper along the river. As we walked along watching the river on our left, Graham checked the map and said we should look out for Artengill viaduct. We looked behind us on the right and there it was – we had almost walked past it. A little further along the Sportman's Inn looked very inviting, but we pressed on.

'Waterfall over limestone shelf on River Dee'

'Artengill viaduct'

'Lea Yat bridge near Cowgill'

We left the road near Cowgill, crossing fields up on the southern side of Dent Dale, with wonderful views over the green fields and farms of the valley floor and lower slopes and brown moors above. Just after leaving the road we stopped to chat with a Canadian couple we had first met where the Dales Way joined the Pennine Way on the previous day. They were having lunch, and an easy day finishing in Dent so we wouldn't see them again.

'Walking beside the Dee'

We crossed the river a couple of times on footbridges, then stopped for a late lunch by a ford and Tommy Bridge. After lunch we decided to take the road into Dent, avoiding ten stiles and two gates on the riverside path. Dent was a lovely village with cobbled streets, two pubs, a church, and lots of cottages for sale. We bought cold drinks - it was another hot day, and we were going through our water supplies.

'Crossing Tommy Bridge'

'Dentdale's green fields and farms, brown moors above'

'Dent village'

'Cobbled street, Dent'

After Dent we again followed the river, now wider and deeper with more dippers, along a pleasant path. The NoEW then followed a minor road which we turned off over the Brackensgill footbridge to follow a very stony path over Moser Hill to rejoin the NoEW just before rounding a bend to see a grand view over the Rawthey River valley, Sedbergh and the Howgills.

'River Dee now wider and deeper'

'Stony path up Moser Hill'

'Livestock beside the path'

'First view of Sedbergh'

We descended past the pretty cottage gardens of Millthrop, across the Rawthey, and trudged up Loftus Hill past the posh school to the centre of the town. In one of life's strange coincidences, a postgraduate student who began working in Mary's lab when we got home had attended the Sedbergh school. We found one of the Dales Way couples we met at the Station Inn sitting with their boxer enjoying a drink in the evening sunshine outside the Dalesman pub. We headed towards our B&B, but reached what we thought was the edge of town. Graham phoned the B&B for directions, kept walking for another minute and met our landlord at his front gate. We were given a warm welcome to Daleslea B&B and shown to a very large room with a separate large bathroom – one of the best rooms of the walk.

'Cottage gardens, Millthrop'

'Our room, Daleslea B&B'

After a great shower and washing clothes, we returned to the Dalesman for dinner. Graham began with an Old Speckled Hen, another of his favourite beers aided by recollections of his 20 years as an MG owner. Mary had a very good fillet steak with chips and salad. Graham had a fantastic roast brisket, celeriac and vegetables – our landlord told us next morning it was his favourite meal at the Dalesman.

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