Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 12.8 miles;
moving speed – 3.0 mph
start – 10 am
finish – 5.15 pm
moving – 4h 18min

Before breakfast Graham updated the diary, then went birdwatching and to search for the path that would take us back to the NoEW – Hackness Grange was about half a mile off the NoEW. Mary went to the lounge where wifi was available to log into her work emails to deal with issues arising in the laboratory back home where she was lab manager.

Breakfast was good, especially the fresh fruit salad, but wasn't of the gargantuan quantity that walkers can devour. We filled up on pleasant croissants and muffins.

We took a lane opposite Hackness Grange to rejoin the NoEW track ascending through woods to Broxa Rigg, then crossed fields with views to the Jerry Noddle ridge that we would walk later that day. We descended a steep narrow path to cross the River Derwent and followed the road past the Langdale End pub with a vintage car and bus parked outside. We left the road heading for a gate leading to Spring Farm. A helpful lady emerged from Spring Farm to point to a gate lower down the hill that we should be making for. She watched to ensure we were back on the path then waved us goodbye. As we headed along Bickley Rigg a herd of cows walked and ran towards us, making Mary uneasy. Hand in hand we walked through the herd. They turned and followed us until we left the field.

'Graham on Broxa Rigg, Jerry Noddle on horizon centre'

'Mary descends Derwent Valley to Langdale End'

'Langdale End pub'

'Cows coming to terrorise Mary, Bickley Rigg'

At Bickley we bought apples and scones for lunch from a wayside cart. We then climbed Jerry Noddle following forestry tracks and paths past nettles, brambles and heather. After following a ridgetop vehicle track for a while, we stopped for lunch at a seat overlooking the Crosscliff valley, Fylingdales radar station, and expanses of heather. The apples we had bought earlier were bitter, and the scones had been in the sun for too long. But we enjoyed our lunch anyway in that beautiful setting.

'Lunch overlooking Crosscliff valley'

The long, level forestry road through Crosscliff Wood was easy walking. Mary stopped to chat with several couples walking with their dogs. We saw many birds and butterflies beside the track.

'Mary talks to dogs and people, Crosscliff Wood'

'Butterfly, Crosscliff Wood'

The highlight of the day was seeing the glorious purple sea of flowering heather in and around the Hole of Horcum. Many walkers were there to enjoy the spectacle. Seeing heather in bloom was one of Graham's bucket list items. The descent into the Hole of Horcum was very slow as Graham stopped for photographs after every bend in the path. A couple walking the other way kindly offered to take a picture of us together.

'Sea of flowering heather, Hole of Horcum'

'Too old codgers, Hole of Horcum'

The walk along the Levisham Beck valley was delightful. We stopped for afternoon tea at a green, leafy glade at the junction of Water Griff and Levisham Beck. From there on to Levisham the valley narrowed and woods covered the steep valley sides. The path was overgrown in places so we had to push through chest high bracken and brambles.

'Levisham Beck valley'

'Afternoon tea stop beside Levisham Beck'

It felt like a long slog for the last half hour into Levisham. We decided we did not need to add a double crossing of the steep sided valley by following the NoEW to Lockton and back to Levisham. So we continued along the direct path to Levisham, emerging at the bottom end of the village beside our stop for the night, Moorlands B&B. Gill, the bubbly welcoming host, showed us to our spacious room and made us feel at home.

'Moorlands House B&B, Levisham'

We showered and washed clothes at the B&B, then went for a walk to the pub at the top of the village where we had drinks at an outside table looking out over the neat cottages along the village street. Dinner was provided at the B&B, cooked by Gill's husband using local produce. He was a talented chef who obviously enjoyed cooking. We began with carrot and coriander soup, and a tomato, mozzarella and basil salad, followed by sea bream in a béchamel sauce and duck breast. Mary went to bed straight after dinner while Graham stayed for coffee and a chat with the other guests who were all regular visitors to the B&B.

Next >>>>