Too Old Codgers

Statistics:
distance - 17 miles
moving speed – 3.0 mph
start – 9.15 am
finish – 5.45 pm
moving – 5h 45m

After breakfast of cereal or yoghurt and cooked English, and a chat with the landlord, we were away at 9.15. It had been a very pleasant stay at Daleslea.

'Leaving Daleslea B&B'

We walked through the outskirts of Sedbergh to rejoin the NoEW at Birks Mill. The walk beside River Rawthey in the morning light under overhanging oaks and other trees was very pretty, especially at the junction of the Rawthey and Dee. At a bend of the Rawthey we briefly joined the road, then set off over fields to the River Lune at Lincoln's Inn Bridge. As we reached the bridge a beautifully restored E-type Jaguar was driven carefully past us, roof down on another sunny day.

'Junction of Rivers Rawthey and Dee'

We continued near the Lune for the rest of the morning. We passed under the magnificent red sandstone arches of the Lune viaduct, discovering great echoes between the arches. Then we climbed up the side of the Lune valley to Bramaskew Farm where the gnarled base of an old oak provided table and seats for morning tea. Our peace was disturbed by the roar of the M6 two valleys away. A group of four examining a Dales Way guidebook passed as we sat under the tree. We followed them down the hill, past a farm to rejoin the Lune. The riverside path was pleasant but narrow in places, steep in others, and sometimes squelchy. In one narrow, sunken part of the path Mary's boot caught on a rock and sent her tumbling. Fortunately her dicky knee wasn't harmed.

'Magnificent Lune viaduct'

'Morning tea under and on an oak at Bramaskew Farm'

'Walking beside the Lune'

We crossed the Crook of Lune bridge, with beautiful views along the river to the rounded tops of the Howgill Fells. We walked under the Lowgill viaduct and wondered at the waste of resources in building so many rail lines that had a limited life. Through the arches we could see the successors to the abandoned lines – the M6 and the northern Glasgow rail line.

'View of the Howgills from Crook of Lune Bridge'

'Butterfly near Crook of Lune'

'Lowgill viaduct'

As we headed for the M6 crossing, we could see a group of nine straggling along ahead of us and bunching up at each stile. They left an easily followed trail of trampled grass. After crossing the M6 we were looking for a place to stop for lunch. The map showed a small bridge over a stream running through a wood – it appeared to be the perfect lunch stop, and it was for the group of four who had passed us at morning tea and now occupied our intended lunch spot.

'Group of nine Dales Way walkers'

'Horses help Mary over a stile'

The crossing of the rail line had been re-routed, and the map wasn't clear. We found a road bridge over the rail line and sat on the steps beside the rail line for lunch. Soon afterwards we heard the group of four having the same conversation we had about which way to go, then they came down the steps passing us again. Before setting off, Graham closely studied the guidebook and OS map. After following the group of nine trail for a while, Graham wondered if they were following a different route from our NoEW. After a GPS check we diverged from the group of nine trail and found the NoEW route. The same happened again near Thursgill Farm. From then on we decided we wouldn't follow the trampled grass trail.

'The main northern rail line to Glasgow'

'Lunch beside the main northern rail line'

'Sheep near Green Head Farm'

We crossed the infant River Mint, passed Biglands and headed for Black Moss Tarn framed by power line pylons. After Goodham Scales Farm the guidebook showed a lane swinging off left. A check of the OS map showed the lane was the shortest route into Kendal where we were staying for the night. We were both weary, so diverged from the NoEW. It was easy walking, but the tarmac road was tough on the feet. We both had the sensation of ants crawling along our leg muscles, a symptom of muscle exhaustion.

'Black Moss Tarn'

After passing Meal Bank we left the minor road to follow a pretty path alongside the now substantial River Mint, then took the footpath alongside the A6 into Kendal. Our room at Bridge House B&B was clean and tidy, but quite compact and backing onto a rail line. After showering, we had a drink at the recommended Castle Inn – the Timothy Taylor's Landlord was good. Then we headed off towards the town centre in search of dinner and saw a hotel balcony overlooking the River Kent – we decided to eat there. The maxim that a restaurant with a view rarely has good food was reinforced. The drinks and food were alright, but views of the kingfisher, passing people, pink sunset sky and town lights reflected in the water were wonderful. We were told next morning that the ripples we had seen on the Kent may have been from otters that live in this stretch of the river. We retreated to bed at 9.15.

'Walking beside the Mint into Kendal'

'Bridge House B&B, Kendal'

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