C2C day 8 – Kirkby Stephen to Muker
The Nine Standards sit atop the Pennine watershed dividing the flow of rivers east and west. They were probably constructed as county or parish boundary markers, but the more imaginative explanation is that they were built by the English to make the marauding Scots believe there were soldiers camped on the hilltop. Crossing the watershed is a significant point on the C2C, but amongst C2Cers the Nine Standards are 'best' known for peat bogs so deep they swallow calves.
After a splendid breakfast and a long chat with the owner of Fletcher House, we set off at around 9.30. We crossed Frank's Bridge over the River Eden and followed the hawthorn lined road up past Hartley Quarry onto the increasingly boggy/ muddy moor to Nine Standards Rigg. We manoeuvred our way around the bogs on the way up to and especially down from the Rigg. But along the steep boggy path dropping down to Whitsundale Beck, Mary slipped and fell twice. Fortunately the only damage was a muddy bottom.
'Hartley quarry, Kirkby Stephen below'
'Nine Standards and the infamous bogs'
'Mary's bog-hopping style'
We lunched on the banks of Whitsundale Beck overlooking a series of meanders across the flood plain of the Beck. We waved at a fighter flying low over the fell and were acknowledged by a waggle of the wings. As we finished our lunch a couple of women claimed the spot for their lunch. We were to walk with them for part of the next day's walk. It was they who told us about the storm over Kidsty Pike.
Isolated Ravenseat Farm was the first sign of habitation since near Hartley Quarry. The sign on the track into the farm was a great introduction to the owners of the farm – 'Slow down – free range children'. Emma, wife and mother of an ever increasing number of children, serves tea and scones with jam and cream for passing walkers. Having starred in Julia Bradbury's C2C program, she is quite a celebrity. She was happy to chat with us while the tea was brewing.
'Isolated Ravenseat Farm'
'Mary and David enjoy afternoon tea at Ravenseat Farm'
From Ravenseat Farm we followed the River Swale from its headwaters down through Keld to Muker. Several abandoned farmhouses were testament to the tough life farming these isolated moors and dales. Near Keld the Swale and its tributaries tumble over limestone shelves and cliffs or scars; Wainwright wrote of these waterfalls or forces –'Always, at Keld, there is the music of the river.'
'Headwaters of the River Swale'
'Abandoned farmhouse'
'Wainwath Force and Cotterby Scar'
At Keld we crossed the Swale and climbed steeply above a deep gorge cut by the river, then slowly descended back to river level to cross a footbridge and follow a footpath through meadows into Muker at about 6pm. We were welcomed by John at Swale Farm B&B. After a shower we walked to the nearby Farmers Arms pub where John's wife Joyce served a very good dinner - Graham was happily reacquainted with Old Peculier and varied his usual order to have a delicious venison pie.
'Approaching Muker'
'Muker'