C2C Day 7 – Orton to Kirkby Stephen
By now we had developed a morning routine. As early risers we had time before breakfast to re-pack our rucksacks and cases, review the previous day's pictures and update the diary, and go for a walk around the village as the sun rose. This morning the village walk was under an overcast sky in light drizzle. All Saints Church was established in 1293, but the wonderful mix of building styles clearly resulted from modifications and extensions over many periods. The display in the windows of the chocolate factory, in what had been the village school, was enticing even for someone who doesn't crave chocolate – fortunately we would be leaving before the shop opened.
'Orton's All Saint's church'
After the panic on our arrival, we were apprehensive about breakfast at our B&B. We shouldn't have been concerned. We joined five other C2C walkers, three of whom we had met at several of our overnight stops, and a couple with whom we were to share much of the remaining walk. The breakfast of cereals with stewed fruits followed by the cooked English was great. We were eating twice as much as we would at home, then burning off many more calories on the walk than during our usual working day.
'One of Orton's bridges'
We set off at 9 and were soon out on country lanes surrounded by more of the green, stone-walled fields of sheep and cattle. For most of the time since Patterdale we had been carrying our own patch of sunshine and dry weather with us, despite seeing rain around us. Again this morning we were in sunshine while we could see black clouds and rain over the Howgills. Some days later we met a couple who had crossed Kidsty Pike on this day, and they told us of driving winds and horizontal hail and rain. We were very fortunate to have chosen the particular dates for our walk – a day or two either way and we would have had a very different, much wetter experience.
'Our patch of sunshine, rain over the Howgills'
The pleasant green fields gave way to more moors for the remainder of the morning. The path was generally good walking, but there were a few boggy areas to prepare us for the next day! After crossing Ravenstonedale Moor, we stopped in the lee of an endless stone wall for lunch. We had views over more stone-walled fields to the Howgill Fells and we could just make out the Nine Standards on a far-off Pennine hilltop, our route for tomorrow.
'Ravenstonedale Moor'
'Our first sight of the Nine Standards on horizon'
We descended gradually by a very long stone wall to Scandal Beck running through Smardale. We passed Severals prehistoric settlement, a site that only an archaeologist could find interesting - or even find! But Smardale had much more interesting sights for us. The Smardale packhorse bridge in its setting on Scandal Beck surrounded by rolling green fields with the Howgill Fells on the horizon was beautiful – a colleague who saw the picture asked if there were hobbits! And the 14 arch Smardalegill viaduct, built in 1861 of stone quarried nearby, was magnificent.
'Smardale packhorse bridge'
'Smardale viaduct, a magnificent disused railway bridge'
After the gradual descent to Scandal Beck, there was a longer and steeper ascent over Smardale Fell, then more downs and ups before our arrival in Kirkby Stephen at about 4pm.
At Fletcher House we climbed a grand staircase, under a chandelier with a view into a pretty garden, to get to our pleasant, sunlit room. We showered, then went for a walk around the streets and narrow alleys of the town. Materials used for buildings were more diverse than we had seen elsewhere including red sandstone, apparently the same stratum of sediments as those at St Bees, slate, or limestone, and some were painted or whitewashed. The beautiful red sandstone St Hedda church was hidden away behind shops and offices, but the laneway leading to it opened out to a peaceful lawned area.
'Kirkby Stephen from the garden of Fletcher House'
'St Hedda church, Kirkby Stephen'
We headed to the King's Arms for dinner, but we left after our first drink because of the unsavoury comments of some of the locals. Perhaps we were fortunate – dinner and drinks at the Black Bull were very good.