C2C Day 4 – Grasmere to Patterdale
Graham was up early again to explore Grasmere, particularly the Wordsworth connections including Dove cottage and the graves in St Oswald's church yard. And the caption above the doorway of one of the shops brought a smile: 'Feel free to wander lonely or as a crowd'. Highlights of the walk were seeing a fox and the slate cottages and their gardens.
'Grasmere slate cottages and gardens'
An advantage of Chestnut Villa is that it is on the C2C side of Grasmere. A short walk up the footpath beside the A591, while looking across at Helm Crag in the morning sun, took us back to the C2C route. We took the path up Little Tongue Gill for the views over Grasmere, and they were spectacular against a blue sky. The price to pay was a very long, steep trudge up the side of Great Tongue, with frequent stops to admire the view and suck in some deep breaths.
'Chestnut Villa with Helm Crag in early morning sun'
'Mary at the top of Great Tongue, Grasmere and Dove Lake in the valley below'
We followed the rocky track traversing the scree slopes to get to Grisedale Hause, and then beautiful, blue Grisedale Tarn sparkling in the sun and surrounded by imposing peaks. After Mary's experience on Haystacks we again decided on the low level valley route to Patterdale. Once we were into the valley out of the wind we stopped for lunch. Walking down the valley the transition from rugged, rocky fells to green pastures grazed by cattle was marked. As was the case on the previous day, there were many day walkers out enjoying the sunshine.
'Graham and Grisedale Tarn'
'Looking down Grisedale'
'Looking back up Grisedale to St Sunday Crag and the Helvellyn range'
After the pleasant walk down Grisedale we soon found our overnight lodgings at the White Lion in Patterdale. By now we were recognising familiar faces from the C2C. And most were in the bar of the White Lion celebrating another relatively easy, sunny day. Without any formal arrangements, C2C walkers tended to congregate in one or two pubs after each day's walk. The camaraderie that developed within these constantly changing groups was a significant part of what made the walk so special. Because of different itineraries, walkers were leaving and joining different groups throughout the walk. But always there were friendly, smiling faces and a sharing of stories from the walk, warnings of trouble spots, and helpful hints. Most C2C walkers seemed to leave the cares and troubles of the real world behind, and happily joined the community of people sharing this common adventure.
After a few drinks we walked around Patterdale and discovered C2C souvenirs in the Patterdale stores. Mary now has a bright orange C2C T shirt.
Mary and Graham were concerned that David and Robyn, who had last been seen a short way behind at Grisedale Tarn, hadn't arrived in Patterdale. We assumed they had stopped for lunch at the Tarn and would follow us along the easily found path down Grisedale. It turned out they had followed a couple wearing the same coloured coats as we had up on to Helvellyn. By the time they realised their 'error' it was too late to turn back, so they came down Striding Edge and back towards the valley floor. At that stage they met a farmer out looking for stray sheep who gave them a lift into Patterdale. David was happy with their adventure, but Robyn was exhausted. They arrived at about 7pm as Mary and Graham were asking about calling out the local mountain rescue team.
After a convivial dinner in the White Lion, we found our way up the winding stairs and narrow passageways to our cramped little room for a blissful sleep.
'The White Lion and Patterdale Stores'