Too Old Codgers

Before breakfast Graham explored Rosthwaite and its surrounds. Set in a valley surrounded by fells, the slate and whitewashed houses, Herdwick sheep in the green fields, and moss covered drystone walls all seemed part of a perfectly integrated rural English scene.

'Rosthwaite's slate and whitewashed houses; Wainwright sketched the same view'

'Moss covered drystone walls and the fells'

Our walk out of Rosthwaite began on a path winding between drystone walls beside Stonethwaite Beck. We detoured to lovely Stonethwaite, a miniature version of Rosthwaite with a few houses and a pub. From the path to Stonethwaite we could see the Greenup Gill valley, our route ahead, winding around towering Eagle Crag. The walk up the valley was delightful, with many waterfalls on Greenup Gill and its tributaries. The sound of running water was ever present. The retrospective views down the valley towards Rosthwaite became grander as we ascended the valley.

'From Stonethwaite, Greenup Gill winds around Eagle Crag'

'Running water was ever present'

'Looking back down Greenup Gill'

After the long ascent of Greenup Gill, the steep, rocky track up Lining Crag was a challenge, and then we were confronted by the first peat bogs of the walk on Greenup Edge and across Wythburn Valley. We sheltered out of the wind behind a rocky outcrop on Greenup Edge to eat our lunch in the sun. And as we looked at the fells to the east we tried to work out where we would be walking the next day – we identified Grisedale Hause, the pass we would cross between the peaks of St Sunday Crag and Dollywaggon Pike (most Australian place names are bland by comparison!).

'Steep path up Lining Crag'

'Lunch on Greenup Edge'

'We descended Greenup Edge to the Wythburn Valley bogs'

Having enjoyed the walk up Greenup Gill we decided on the low-level path down Far Easedale, and it was just as beautiful. It was an easy walk, although the path carried a stream of water – a real test of waterproof boots. There were many more walkers about, apparently out for day walks from Grasmere. As we approached Grasmere, the falls on Sour Milk Gill were really impressive.

'Stream of water along Far Easedale path'

'Sour Milk Gill'

The day's walk was magnificent – Graham's favourite day of the C2C. The scenery was magic, and the sun shone.

We arrived at Grasmere mid-afternoon and dawdled up the road of shops, restaurants and hotels – a reality check after a couple of days in Lakeland's isolated valleys and fells. Our B&B was up a gentle hill a few minutes out of town. Our room at Chestnut Villa was pleasant and filled with light, with views of the ridge leading up to Fairfield. After showering and reviewing the day's pictures, we had an enjoyable dinner at the nearby Swan Hotel.

'Grasmere shops'

'Robyn admires hanging gardens and window boxes'

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